Jose Mourinho returns to Santander to face Racing, carrying a few familiar memories from his last visit 15 years ago. The scene waiting for him at El Sardinero has changed beyond recognition. The club has been transformed on every front: sporting, administrative and among its supporters.
The Portuguese will find the Real hotel exactly as he remembers it, the base Real Madrid used during his first spell in charge, having once served as Racing Santander's own hotel. He'll enjoy the same view of the bay from his balcony. Step inside the stadium, though, and most of the faces and details he knew are long gone.
El Sardinero itself looks much as it did in 2011, yet almost everything within it feels different. The coloured banner overlooking the pitch no longer sits among torn flags. The stands buzz with life, and the club carries fresh ambitions.




