trends
by:
Krishan Davis
Football’s prominence in the fashion sphere, and vice versa, is nothing new. For decades, footballers have been style icons and terraces have influenced streetwear trends. But as we reach the mid-2020s, the line separating the pitch from the runway has blurred and there is a sense that a fourth wall between the two ostensibly unconnected worlds has been broken.
Vintage football shirts, track jackets and shell suits have long been go-to pieces for ‘blokecore’ subscribers, but increasingly we are seeing an almost unfathomable permeation into the high-fashion space. When you really think about it, it is absolutely mental that models are walking at Paris Fashion Week wearing football shirts designed by the likes of Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Acne Studios, but such has been the surge in the aesthetic’s popularity that barely a runway show goes by without a model wearing something football-inspired.
Now, some of sportswear’s big hitters are quite literally taking things a step further. You wouldn’t bat an eyelid if you passed someone on the streets of east London wearing a retro Reading shirt or 90s Northampton Town track jacket, but what about a pair of relaunched early 2000s astros in the guise of streetwear trainers?! Yeah, that’d get your attention alright.
This isn’t a new trend, per se, but it’s definitely one that has gained serious momentum this year. adidas Samba mania swept the planet a couple of years back before ex-prime minister and avid wearer Rishi Sunak brought that to an abrupt end in the UK, although that silhouette was already very far removed from its roots as a revolutionary football shoe for wintery conditions. We’ve also seen luxury brands like Balenciaga, Bode and Burberry make forays into football boot design well ahead of the curve, albeit at an eye-watering price point.
In 2025, experimental, football-inspired footwear is becoming increasingly normalised. This is fashion’s trickle-down effect in action, with the concept going from top designers, to runway shows, to being reproduced in various forms for the high street. It’s undoubtedly a boon for manufacturers like Nike and adidas, who had previously been pigeonholed as ‘sportswear only’ and were outsiders looking in on the exclusive high-fashion world.
March brought Nike’s hotly-anticipated reboot of its Total 90 silo - a cultural phenomenon that swept the UK in the early 2000s, transcending the boots, kits and balls that followed an instantly-recognisable template. The Total 90 III was arguably the most memorable and iconic football boot the sportswear giant produced in the T90 era, and the slow-dripped relaunch generated plenty of hype for an updated version potentially coming to the pitch.
But that’s not what Nike had in mind. Instead, they dropped a capsule of T90 III trainers, designed for the street, not the pitch. The retailing of the product speaks volumes; this is more a style item than it is a football shoe. You won’t find these at your local Sports Direct. If you want to get your hands on them, you’ll need to be looking in high-end stores like END., HIP and SevenStore, and they’ll set you back around £100.
adidas followed suit later in March, dropping a version of their Megaride trainer inspired by the Predator Absolute boot which was first released in 2006. Unlike the T90s, these do look much more like sneakers than something you could ping a 60-yard pass in if the feeling took you. However, they still feature a big nod to their origins in the form of the foldover tongue. Again, you won’t find them alongside your average football clobber, with END. among a select group of retailers.
Samuel Falzone, a New Jersey-based designer who reworks vintage football boots and astros, spoke to GOAL Editions to give his take on the phenomenon. “There's so many trends within footwear, but a rise of slimmer, more low-profile shoes seem to be what a lot of people are looking for,” he tells us. “Honestly, the shape and silhouette of football boots and astros are so in line aesthetically with the trend. And in a post-sneaker dominated world, there is a familiarity and ease of transition with these styles.”
However, Falzone doesn’t view the resurgence of reissue in a wholly positive light. “I love that old retro styles are being dug up and resurfacing everywhere,” he says. “But at the same time, there's not much priority on new innovations and there’s also a consumer neglect for new designs, to be honest.”
But you don’t have to shell out all of your hard-earned cash on the latest drops to be part of this movement; the resurgence of the astroturf trainer has led many like Falzone to produce their own unique takes, with plenty of original astros and boots from the late 90s and noughties eras readily available on reselling platforms like eBay, Depop and Vinted.
Real Madrid superstar Vinicius Junior even stepped out in a custom pair of Falzone’s reworked vintage Total 90s recently - the kind of moment that will only fuel this meteoric popularity. “I was commissioned by Nike to make a special shoe for an athlete of theirs,” Falzone reveals. “I wasn't told who at first, but I had an inclination.”
Falzone now finds himself on the crest of this wave, having started out as a hobbyist. “Initially, I was reworking my own personal collection of shoes that needed to be repaired, and doing so made me look at shoes with a whole new lens,” he says. “Older football boots work well in my work due to them being primarily leather, this guarantees longevity.”
If you thought vintage football shirts were as far as football’s influence on fashion would go, the past weeks and months have proven otherwise. The sport is now informing style from head to toe, reaching new and unprecedented heights in the fashion world. These days, you’re just as likely to see someone in a ‘90s football jersey, trackies and T90 astros walking through the streets of Soho as you are to spot them on the pitch or in the park.
With footwear checked off, we have truly reached the final frontier of this niche crossover-turned-cultural phenomenon. The only thing that remains is for people to start wearing goalie gloves, shinpads or actual studs for fashion. Never say never.