Back in 2017, we sent James Wright and Seb White to Copenhagen to find out all about Christiania Sports Club for Issue 10. Recently, Seb returned to the Danish capital with hummel. Jan was still pulling pints behind the bar, and everyone connected with the club was as welcoming as ever, so what better time to revisit one of the best pieces we've had in the magazine over the past decade.
A man clenches his fist and screams into a megaphone. Dogs run wild and clouds of weed smoke drift over my head; carried off on the cool riverside breeze. Amongst the chaos a punk’s fallen asleep in the Copenhagen sunshine as toddlers scream, mates laugh, couples chat and a never-ending sea of local booze flows. Somewhere in the background, there’s some football. Welcome to Christiania Sports Club (CSC).
CSC is Christiania, but what Christiania is, depends on who you ask. To the Danish right, it’s a problematic community of squatters illegally occupying valuable real estate. In the eyes of its supporters, it’s an autonomous zone, an alternative to a harsh, competitive society. Nestled in the Christianshavn region of Copenhagen, about 850 people live in a network of graffitied buildings and all manner of eco structures. A bit like Grand Designs without the overwhelming smugness. Despite a government crackdown following drug-related violence in 2004, marijuana is part of the fabric here. While hard drugs are shunned, the infamous Pusher Street inhabitants still trade buds and hash while ensuring a kicking if you decide to take pictures. (Editor’s note: Local residents have since cracked down on the sale of drugs after several instances of gang-related violence).
Looking at the colourful, tourist-filled streets of Christiania today it’s hard to imagine that this was an abandoned military barracks in 1971. Homeless people sporadically moved in, risking trespass for a safe place to sleep. Soon after, nearby locals motivated by rising rent prices smashed through the fencing, first established a playground for local kids then a commune. In the words of co-founder Jacob Ludvigsen, the goal was “to create a self-governing society whereby each and every individual holds themselves responsible for the wellbeing of the entire community”.
CSC are a rebellious exhalation from the lungs of this community; a dank cloud haunting the Danish lower leagues with values of diversity, freedom and half decent wing interplay. The club are a reflection of Christiania’s principled struggle to exist. As barricades were erected by residents to defend against police incursions, CSC fought Copenhagen’s police team on the pitch with tasty tackles and record crowds.
